1. Proper Freeboard height
All boats are built for specific conditions and missions. It is the responsibility of the boat operator – and his alone – to operate the boat in conditions for which it was built. The height of the boat’s freeboard must match the boat’s mission.
2. Adequate Dewatering Design and Equipment
If water gets into the boat, you need to get it out. For example, all boats that are kept on a dock or a mooring should have a self-draining cockpit. That means simply that the cockpit deck should be higher than the waterline so that rain water or sea water coming aboard can find its way out – by gravity – without a pump.
Larger boats should have appropriate capacity bilge pumps and ocean-going vessels should have emergency valves on the engine intake so that the engine raw water pump can be used for dewatering.
Small open aluminum boats will not have self-draining cockpits so a bucket should always be aboard for bailing. When left at a dock, these boats should be monitored.
3. Seacocks or gate valves on thru-hull fittings
All thru-hull fittings below the waterline must have a marine seacock or gate valve that can be turned off in case a hose gives way.
All hoses leading to a thru-hulls should have double hose clamps at both ends.
4. All thru-hull shut off valves must be easily reachable
This sounds obvious but we are amazed every year when we find a few boats that require an orangutan to reach the thru-hull valves.
5. Every boat with cockpit drains or scuppers should have large ones that are unobstructed
When metal plates with holes in them are used for cockpit drains, its usefulness is greatly diminished. The best design in our opinion is one that allows the full interior diameter of the drain and hose to be utilized. Plates with small holes in them greatly restrict water flow.
6. Access to fuel-fill fittings
All boats should have specific marine grade hose that leads from the fuel-fill on deck to the top of the fuel tank. After each refueling the operator should check the hose junctions at the top of the tank to make sure there is no leakage. This should be done before the blower is turned on.
7. A proper anchor locker
Increasingly, builders of small boats are eliminating a dedicated locker in the bow for anchors and anchor rode. The reason is usually because they are trying to create more seating space.
Furthermore, few pontoon boats have a dedicated anchor locker.
In a boat with no dedicated anchor locker, a seat storage locker can be used to store both the anchor and the anchor rode. To facilitate quick deployment and eliminated tangles in the rode, this locker should not be used for any other purpose.
Large boats should have a large enough access to the rode locker to facilitate untangling the anchor chain or line. After a rough passage, the chain can become horrendously tangled.
All boats must have an anchor and an anchor rode.
8. Proper anchor cleats on the bow
This is a key item of equipment that more and more builders these days are skimping on in small boats. Ideally, the cleat should be on or close to the centerline of the boat.
We do not favor using cleats set off to each side of the bow on the rail for the anchor rode tie-off.
As a corollary to this, in every anchor locker there should be a way to tie the bitter end of the rode to the hull or other a secure structure.
9. Reboarding ladder extending 22” below the waterline
ABYC standards require that virtually all power boats be equipped with a ladder that can be reached by a person in the water – and that it extend at least 22” below the waterline.
10. Handy Engine Kill Switch or Shutoff
All small boats must be equipped with a kill switch that is in a location conducive to a lanyard being connected to the operator. Large boats should have an emergency engine shut off device handy to the helm.
11. Windshield header ABOVE eye level
If the windshield header is at eye level when underway, the operator will never be comfortable. Either he must stand up or duck down to see forward.
Note that most boats ride at a 3 to 5-degree bow-high attitude when on plane. As a result, what may appear to be a header at eye level at rest is actually higher on plane. Nevertheless, when idling the header should not be at eye level.
On large boats, particularly European-designed express cruisers, it is often impossible to stand at the helm and see out forward without bending down. Such boats require that the captain must be always seated when piloting.
12. Operator’s pedestal seat must not wobble
A common complaint among owners of small boats is that the helm seat wobbles. Not only is this annoying, it can also be dangerous.
All seats should be ergonomically correct, which is to say – be comfortable.
13. Handholds for all seats
ABYC standards require that a handhold be installed for every seat on a small boat. The reason is obvious, and while most builders are careful to do this, some seats are occasionally in locations that do not lend themselves easily to the installation of handholds.
Large boats designed to go offshore should have overhead handholds, something we rarely see.
14. Adequate Seating Capacity
Every boat under 26’ has a U.S.C.G capacity plate by the helm that notes both the maximum horsepower for the boat and its rated capacity for passengers.
The stated passenger capacity sometimes bears little relationship to the number of seats on the boat. The reason is because the U.S.C.G uses a formula to calculate load capacity based on interior cockpit volume and an average weight for passengers of between 150 and 180 pounds (68-82 kgs).
We recommend that consumers count the number of seating positions and use the smallest of that number or the U.S.C.G rated capacity.
In boats over 26’ there is no capacity limitation in the U.S., but in Europe the CE classification changes depending on how many people are aboard. Owners of boats with a flying bridge should be careful not to overload the bridge. Some manufacturers affix plates on the stairs leading to the bridge giving its capacity.
Source: riviera boat
For years you’ve been dreaming of the day you pick up your new boat, launch it like a pro and return to the ramp with more fish than you can pack in your mum’s deep freeze. But the dream doesn’t always become a reality. It’s a steep learning curve for new boat owners. What could possibly go wrong you ask? A lot it seems.
1. The Launch
If you haven’t mastered reversing a 6’x4’ trailer at the local rubbish tip, don’t consider backing a boat down a ramp without some serious practice behind you. You don’t want a cranky queue of Sunday morning boaties watching you attempt to coordinate the steering wheel with the boat trailer for the very first time. That’s best done in an empty car park with no one watching!
2. Grab a Bucket
I’m not talking about your seasick passenger. If you forget to put the bungs in before launching your boat, you’ll soon be madly bailing water to stop it sinking.
3. Fuel Alert
Know which fuel your boat uses, and which deck fill connects to the fuel tank. If your mate is helping fuel up while you look after important things like ice for the esky, don’t assume they have any clue which fuel to use or where it goes.
4. Weather Warning
Some people think a weather check is rushing out the front door in their boxers to check the sky is blue. Everything seems fine until later that day when they find themselves miles offshore in high winds, big swell and a darkening sky. Do a proper weather check via internet both the night before and on the day itself.
5. Anchors Away
You find the perfect spot between two boats that you can squeeze into. You throw the anchor overboard and get ready for a fun day in the sun. Your neighbours won’t be happy if you don’t check that your anchor has held and end up bouncing off the sides of their boats.
6. Trim Tab Trauma
Trim tabs are so convenient – until you forget they are there. Make sure you tell your passengers that they aren’t little step ladders for getting back on the boat after swimming, and when you get back to the ramp don’t forget to raise them before loading otherwise the damage bill could be considerable.
8. Mooring Mishaps
Learn how to moor using the correct angle and speed. It’s a good idea to have someone on the bow observing and helping by giving you signals during mooring. Make sure you agree on the signals before attempting the manoeuvre however, if you want to still be on speaking terms during the trip home!
9. YouTube Stardom
The internet is littered with videos of people unhooking their boat too early, so that it falls off the trailer and hits the ramp rather than the water. Or they reverse the car a little too deep and the next thing you know, both the boat and the car are launched. Don’t end up a YouTube celebrity for all the wrong reasons!
10. Ramp Etiquette
We’ve left the big one ‘til last. If you don’t want to be on the receiving end of death stares from seasoned boaties, learn some ramp etiquette. Don’t hold up the queue because you’re busy organising gear in your boat and putting lifejackets on the kids before launching. Pre-plan and pack at home, organise gear and put on life jackets in the car park and only get in the ramp queue once you’re actually ready to launch.
When someone else annoys you on the boat ramp with their lack of awareness or preparedness, you’ll know you’ve made the transition from novice to nailed it. Until then make sure you’ve got good boat insurance.
Source: riviera boat
Your boat trailer winch works hard. It has to retrieve a wet boat weighing hundreds of kilos, and bring it up perfectly centred onto a few slippery rollers, all on a steep slope.
If you are like many other boat owners, you may dread the launch and retrieval part of the day. There’s plenty of stress when getting your boat off or onto the trailer quickly without any damage to the car, boat or crew. Some skippers upgrade their trailer winch to make the task easier and minimize stress and hassle.
There are two kinds of boat trailer winches – manual (muscle power) and electric (12v). With each type, it’s essential to make sure it is suited to your boat’s length and weight.
How Boat Trailer Winches Work: Electric vs Manual
The hand-cranked manual winch method and components have changed little in the past few decades. The crank pulls the line in to be stored on the drum. The windlass, a horizontal-axle rotating machine, maintains tension while the ratchet lock prevents slipping and a gearbox allows for winching at different speeds or ratios.
The gearbox has three main speeds:
- 1:1 ratio – for winding up the line once the boat has been launched into the water
- 3:1 ratio – for pulling lighter boats onto the trailer
- 5:1 & above – for pulling a heavier boat onto the trailer without the assistance of water (e.g. it is completely out of the water)
Instead of a crank handle and muscle power, the electric winch is hooked up to a 12-volt battery and uses variable speed high gear ratios.
Most standard electric winches will have basic features like being able to power in and freewheel out. The winch motor pulls the boat on to the trailer. Freewheel or float means gravity is used to float the boat into the water. The only case where this is not true is with the Powerwinch 915 which has a power-out control that assists with releasing the boat into the water by slowing releasing the gear. Trailer winch models are based on the size of boat they need to pull out of the water – small (3 metres), mid (5 metres) and large (7 metres). A maximum boat weight also ensures the winch is suited to your boat.
Some electric winches have a smooth pulling action and less amperage draw. A level wind system helps prevent snarls and wear in the cable.
Why Choose an Electric Winch?
The cost of an electric winch is more than a manual one, so the advantages need to justify the additional cost.
Some of the reasons for using an electric winch include:
- Boat size – the length and weight means it can’t be manually winched
- Skipper strength – if you aren’t strong or nimble enough to manually winch the boat
- Speed – an electric winch can make it a little quicker to retrieve a boat
- Safety – the risk of accident and hull damage can be minimized by electric winching
Trailer Winch Capacity
Choose your trailer winch based on its Safe Working Load (SWL) capacity and the weight of your boat. Remember to include the weight of your motor, fuel and equipment, not just an empty hull.
There are some factors to consider when deciding on the winch. If you usually launch on a steep ramp, you will need a bigger capacity winch than if you winch on a gentle slope ramp. Your trailer has an impact on how much your boat slides and therefore how hard your winch has to work. If you are using rollers, there is less resistance than carpeted wood bunks so a smaller winch will do the job.
Regarding cranking resistance, lighter boats can use a manual winch with a 3:1, 4:1 or 5:1 gear ratio. For a 3:1 ratio you turn the handle three times for the drum to rotate once.
For heavier boats, a two-speed winch may be required to give you the option of a quick pull-in ratio and a second low speed with a ratio around 16.2:1 for increased mechanical advantage. If the two-speed manual winch isn’t strong enough, it might be worth moving to an electric winch that has variable speed and high gear ratios.
How to Service & Maintain a Boat Winch
Your winch is one of the hardest working parts on your boat and trailer. Winches and their accessories are fairly easy to maintain and replace. If you have owned your trailer winch for a few years and given it little to no love, it’s time to do some maintenance.
The level of maintenance your boat trailer requires will depend on the type of water your boat is launched and retrieved in. If you only use your boat in the ocean, your boat’s maintenance schedule will be different to one that is only launched in freshwater.
Some winches are rated for a number of hours of exposure to saltwater but you still need to make sure you hose down your trailer and winch with fresh water after every trip. A few minutes of your time can extend the life of your winch.
Manual Winch Maintenance
After each trip check if the strap is wet or dry. A wet strap will deteriorate faster and place the drum at risk of corrosion. Pull the strap out its full length and let it dry before winding up again.
Check the winch line regularly for signs of fraying. If you notice any fraying or areas of wear, replace the rope, strap, and cable. You don’t want the strap breaking whilst you are retrieving the boat as this has the potential to cause an injury.
Non galvanized winch gears are particularly prone to corrosion. Use a marine grease to lubricate them, then do the same for the shaft and bushes. Use wire rope lubricant regularly on the cable’s strands so they slide over each other with a minimum of friction.
When the boat is off the trailer, check the rollers. They should move freely and not show any signs of damage. If there is any damage, replace the roller. You may be surprised how much easier it is to retrieve your boat after replacing a roller.
If you see any rust or signs of corrosion on the winch, use a wire brush to remove it and a galvanising compound to prevent more corrosion.
There are parts of a manual winch you can’t inspect without taking them apart. Your trailer winch will have a long life if you take it apart once a year to check the moving parts and to apply grease.
Electric Winch Maintenance & Servicing
Once a year, clean and check your electrical trailer winch. Take off the cover and lubricate the gears with a lithium-based grease but be careful not to spread grease on the clutch lining. Lubricate the cable with WD40 or a similar product by spraying the shaft and cable while the cable is being wound. If the cable is worn or frayed anywhere along the length, buy a new one.
When replacing cable, be sure to buy the same cable type to ensure the winch rating and cable strength are matched for both performance and safety. When replacing the cable wear leather gloves and follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Tips for Using a Trailer Winch
If you are using an electric winch, remember to keep your car’s motor running to reduce the drain on your battery. You don’t want to retrieve your boat only to get back into the car and find you can’t drive off the boat ramp because the battery has died. Don’t overlook your car’s battery. If it’s being used to power your winch, you don’t want any problems on the ramp. Clean the battery terminals and check its charge before hooking up.
If you are using a manual winch, be careful on the ramp. Before you start winching, make sure you have a firm footing and good leverage as ramps are often slippery. Also, be aware that the winch handle can kick back and injure you at any time. You can download a handy guide to boat ramp safety and etiquette here.
Don’t rely on your winch to hold the boat on the trailer while travelling – that’s not its job! Instead, use dedicated boat tie downs to ensure the boat and trailer stay connected while you are driving on the road.
It’s important that your winch and boat weight are a match at the time of purchase and later on. Your boat’s weight is rarely the same when you take trip after trip. The boat shouldn’t exceed more than 75% of the winch’s weight rating. This will allow for a steep incline on a boat ramp or poor weather conditions which effectively add weight to the boat.
Source: riviera boat
Every boat is a compromise. It’s a fact of life. So when you’re trying to find a boat that fits your on-water lifestyle you know there’s no such thing as perfection. There are only boats that can achieve some percentage — you hope a large percentage — of what you have in mind.
Center-console boats are good at that. They occupy a huge segment of small-boat market because they can bring a lot of utility to a lot of people. They also deliver generally excellent performance, rough-water ability, and good looks. They can range from fuel-efficient (single-engine, minimal transom deadrise) to ocean-aggressive (double or triple outboards, lots of deadrise). You can load them with coolers and fishing gear, skis or tow-tubes — or keep them open and simple. And they’re built by a range of well-established, high-quality manufacturers.
You can buy a center-console boat so big that it has room for amenities like bunks, a mini-galley, and even air-conditioning. But a “standard” center console from, say, 20 to 30 feet long, is an open boat with some weather protection for people clustered near the console behind the windshield and under the bimini top. Many center-consoles will have a small head compartment and wet locker inside the console itself, and some minimal seating – behind the console, on top of cooler lids, and often in the bow. The rest of the boat is for doing stuff.
So let’s get back to the utility issue, because center-consoles are like hunting dogs: They’re optimized to do a job, and that’s where they shine. In this case, it’s fishing. Center-consoles offer plenty of standing room and open decks for following a fish, open sky for casting, few things to snag lines on, good security in the cockpit, and capability in rough water. Many of the same qualities make it good as a general-purpose tow-boat — but if you and your family are serious about skiing or wakeboarding, you should look into boats built for the purpose – they’ll have hull forms, engine and drive configurations, wake-making abilities, and on-deck gear built to maximize your enjoyment of those sports. The same is true for scuba diving. A center-console can get the job done, but dedicated divers will want to look at other options, too.
Center-consoles also come in catamaran form, variety of interests on the water – not just fishing or tow-sports, but cruising, picnicking, gathering with friends, then you’re going to need more protection, more comfortable seating, and better stowage. This is where smaller center-consoles begin to lose their edge: Few offer much built-in seating, and even that tends to isolate people in remote areas of the boat — two in the bow, two in the stern, and a big console in between. But once you start loading folding chairs and tables into a boat like that, you undercut its strong points. And there’s no room to stow loose furniture anyway.
As they increase in size, center-consoles do begin to offer more amenities – pull-out transom seats, reversible helm seats, U-shaped settees in the bow, etc. And again, the really jumbo models can set you up for a weekend out of your house. But now we’re talking very serious bucks. With those same bucks you might do better with an express cruiser, a small sport-fisherman… or maybe a vacation home equipped with a small center-console?
Did we mention that all boats are compromises?
Source: riviera boat
Aside from knowing how to safely run a boat out on the water, being able to securely moor it is one of the most important skills a boater can possess.
Yet it’s something that’s frequently done very poorly—and even by boaters with lots of experience. While it may not seem like a big deal, there are plenty of instances where a bad mooring job causes major damage not only to the boat, but also to other boats around it. Whether you’ve got a pontoon boat or an inflatable dinghy, knowing how to properly secure your boat can certainly prevent a lot of expensive headaches.
Before we dig into the heart of the matter let’s take a look at some basic nomenclature that will make it all clearer.
- Bow lines stop the bow of a boat from moving side to side. A bow line also keeps a boat from drifting away when tied alongside, such as when you’re tied off to a bulkhead or pier.
- Breast lines are used to keep a boat from moving away from a pier, or to make it easier when pulling the boat closer for easier boarding.
- Spring lines keep a boat from moving forward or aft. Generally only two of these lines are required, but as many as four are sometimes used, depending on the situation.
- Stern lines prevent the stern of a boat from moving side to side or, when tying up alongside a bulkhead or pier, a stern line keeps a boat from drifting away from the dock.
OTHER MOORING GEAR
- Fenders can be anything from a flat piece of foam to a large inflatable rubber buoy. They’re designed to cushion your boat when you’re tied up alongside a pier or bulkhead, or in any other instance when there’s simply no way to prevent your vessel from making contact with a dock, piling, pier, or another boat. Avoid the urge to call these “bumpers.” This will mark you as a boating newbie.
- Cleats are a horn- or T-shaped piece of hardware on a boat or dock that’s designed to secured lines.
- Pilings are long pieces of timber or metal that are driven into the bottom. Some pilings stand on their own, while others have structures such as bulkheads, docks, or piers attached to them. When a cleat is not present they can be used to secure a dock line.
When you pull into a slip or alongside a pier or bulkhead you’ll usually encounter two things to tie your boat to: cleats and pilings. Some places will have a combination of both, while some have only one or the other. Knowing how to secure a line to both a cleat and a piling is vital to tying up your boat, so let’s have a look at how it’s done.
CLEATS AND PILINGS
Tying off to a cleat—either on your boat or on the dock—is easy. The best way to learn is by watching How to Cleat a Line. If your dock lines have pre-spliced loops in them you can simply weave the loop through the center of the cleat (the eye) and then drape it back over both cleat horns before pulling it tight.
Tying off to a piling can be more challenging. You can use either a clove hitch, which you can learn how to tie by watching How to Tie a Clove Hitch, or you can use a loop in the end of a line—either by tying a bowline (here’s how to tie one) or by using a line with a pre-spliced loop—and drape it around the piling. Or, you can put the bitter end of the dock line through the loop, lower it over the piling, then pull it tight.
TYING UP IN A SLIP OR BERTH
The terms “slip” and “berth” can generally be used interchangeably, depending on where you do your boating. Either way, a slip or berth is a defined area between two piers, two sets of pilings, or a combination of the two.
The idea when tying up in a slip is to keep the boat far enough away from the dock, pilings, and other boats as to avoid hitting them, but not so far as to make boarding difficult. You’ll usually need six total lines: four lines for your bow and stern (two each) and two spring lines. The spring lines should be about one and a half times the length of your boat while the bow and stern lines can be at or just under the length of your boat.
Using the techniques we discussed above to secure your lines to a piling or dock cleats, tie off a line to each bow cleat to keep the boat from moving side to side. Keep in mind that you may sometimes need to crisscross them to get the correct angle. Repeat the process with your two stern lines. Make sure your lines aren’t hitting any hard chafe-points and aren’t tangled in any way. Neatly coil excess line on deck.
Spring lines are a bit trickier. Just remember, we’re trying to keep your boat from moving fore and aft. First secure a spring line to a cleat or piling that’s near the stern of your boat. Next, run it forward to either an amidships cleat or all the way to a bow cleat. This forward spring line line will prevent your boat from moving ahead in the slip. Next, secure another spring line from a cleat or piling that’s at or forward of the bow, back to the aforementioned amidships cleat or all the way aft to a stern cleat. This line will keep your boat from moving backward in its slip. You can run the fore and aft springs on opposite sides, if necessary.
Lastly, be sure you leave enough slack in all of your dock lines to account for the rise and fall of the tide in your area. Spring lines should remain fairly taught, however, and are generally able to adjust with the tide, especially the longer they are. And don’t forget to place fenders where any potential contact points occur.
TYING UP ALONGSIDE
Securing your boat alongside a pier or bulkhead is another common scenario you’ll encounter. Fenders are an important part of the equation, to provide cushioning and protection from the piers or bulkheads you’ll be tying up to. Most folks tie them off with a piece of line and hang them between the boat and the pier or bulkhead, usually from deck railings or lifelines, though some boats have special cleats just for hanging fenders.
Tying up alongside is very much like tying up in a slip or berth, but you’ll only be worried about half of the equation. Two spring lines should be rigged the same way as we discussed when tying up in a slip. Also run a stern and bow line like we discussed above, though naturally, you can only put these on one side of the boat.
If you find your boat wandering out from the pier or bulkhead too far because of the angle of your bow or stern line, consider running a breast line perpendicular from the pier or bulkhead to an amidships cleat. You can also run an individual breast line to the stern and the bow cleat.
One thing a lot of boaters fail to do after they’ve secured all their dock lines is to test out how good a job they’ve done. You can see if you’ve done a proper job tying up by tugging on each dock line aggressively, to make sure the boat doesn’t hit anything as it swings back and forth. As with anything, practice makes perfect. The more docking situations you encounter, the better you’ll become at getting your boat tucked in properly.
Source: riviera boat
Most boaters will agree that food tastes better straight off the grill—particularly on a warm summer day, after you spend many hours out on the water. Waterfront restaurants and bars are generally pretty convenient, but you’re often limited by access, hours of operation, and menu options.
Luckily, having the ability and the right tools to fire up your own marine grill while onboard can help to solve these problems. Just like cooking on land, there’s always safety to keep in mind regardless of whether you are using a gas, charcoal or electric grill. It’s also important to note that you must use a grill designed and approved for marine use—so don’t even think about dragging out the rusty old grill from the backyard. Here at Boat Trader, we’re happy to help get things sizzling on the water. Check out our tips on how to choose the best boat grill.
Choosing the right marine grill
Successful grilling all depends on the amount of heat that is applied, both directly and indirectly. It’s also important to keep in mind the size of your boat, how much grilling you’ll be doing, and your ideal budget. When it comes to choosing a marine grill for your boat, the first decision to make is between gas, charcoal or electric. Each of these options varies in the amount of heat they produce and the way they preheat. For example, gas (or propane) grills are known to preheat quicker than charcoal. Gas grills have become one of the most popular grills for on board use and they come in a variety of sizes. The fact that propane fuel is so cheap and widely available makes these grills a go-to choice for boaters. Not to mention, the smaller disposable fuel bottles can be used on even the largest grills and are still be easy to store. You’ll find propane grills that start in the $200 range and go all the way up into the $1,000s. While affordable and user-friendly, boaters still need to be cautious of gas leaks and the potential to ignite in the right conditions.
Similar to gas, charcoal grills are another top choice for boaters. Many grilling enthusiasts are eager to share their love for charcoal, arguing that you can’t beat the taste of meat seared above this kind of flame. These grills tend to cook a lot slower than gas or electric, but charcoal is readily available and generally easy to light. Boaters should always follow the manufacturers recommendations when it comes to lighting the grill. A downside to marine charcoal grills is that they can be difficult to store. They need to be kept dry and they tend to take up a large amount of space. One of the most common charcoal grills used onboard is a small, round stainless steel grill that can clamp onto almost any handrail or slide into a rod holder. The prices of marine charcoal grills are attractive at just around $150 or $200.
Unlike gas or charcoal, electric grills require that you have a reliable source of AC power on board—either from shorepower or a generator. Lately we’ve seen a trend with many boat manufacturers who have started to include built-in electric grills into their larger models. Typically these grills are placed up on the flybridge or in another dedicated area, permanently installed in the vessel. It’s no surprise that the disadvantage of electric grills is focused around their cost, which is significantly higher than propane grills and charcoal grills. Another obstacle is finding the right amount of electricity needed to operate the grill. On the other hand, electric grills do come with a few distinct benefits. First, lack of an open flame means you may be able to use your electric grill in places where charcoal or propane grills are banned, such as at a dock or in a marina. This lack of an open flame also means that these grills are much safer to use than their gas and charcoal counterparts. Similar to gas grills, the price range for an electric grill can vary immensely depending on size and accessories.
Tips for grilling on your boat
Once you’ve made your choice between gas, charcoal or electric, you’ll want to accessorize with all the usual grilling necessities—utensils, mounts, covers, lighters, a grilling light, storage containers, aprons and more. Oh, and don’t forget the grub.
When it comes to safety, always remember that you should never grill while underway. When you’re onboard, never leave a lit grill unattended, even for just a minute. Also, we strongly advise that you never use gasoline or any other non-approved accelerant to light a marine charcoal grill. Be sure to double check that all propane connections are sealed tight. If you believe you have a leak, check your connections with soapy water—if bubbles form when brushed onto a joint, then you have a leak. Don’t forget to ensure that embers never fall from the grill onto any part of the boat. And of course, be sure to turn off or put out the grill as soon as you’re finished. Once it cools down, detach and store your grill before you get underway again.
Prior to heading out on the water, you can save yourself time and avoid stress by pre-chopping your veggies and marinating your meats. Bring along storage containers and Ziploc baggies to help with leftovers and cleanup following your meal. And speaking of cleanup, be sure to give it the time and effort it deserves to keep your boat—and your marine grill—in shipshape.
Source: riviera boat
Summer in GCC can be clashing for boaters. The leaves are turning hues and a few of us are getting in those last couple of travels before we need to put the boat away for the hot. For others, it may be an ideal opportunity to offer.
It occurs during this season — a period of change. Possibly you were busy to the point that you just got out on the boat two or three times, and there’s no indication of things easing up. Possibly your life conditions have changed and you have to recover money from your venture. So you put the vessel available for sale.
On the sweet side, perhaps you’re selling since you’re up for superior vessel for you and your family — and this hot climate drives straight to Boat Show season! (The next one will be in October at the beginning of the good season in Abu Dhabi, and Riviera Boat we will attend it with different boats)
Regardless of whether you’re offering, purchasing, or completing a touch of both, it’s anything but difficult to give feeling a chance to cloud your judgment. So in the event that you have that tingle to roll out an improvement or two, analyze every one of the points.
Consider your present yacht. Does it do what you and your family require it to do? Is it dependable? Is it accurate to say that you are as yet playing around with it? We as a whole know how simple it can be to get drawn into the possibility of another vessel, and for the vast majority of us it doesn’t take much. Practically, if your boat does his job, keep it. Do the appropriate maintenance legitimately. Put it away and check the days till next season.
In the event that your present watercraft isn’t cutting it any more, you’ll have to make sense of a couple of things. In the event that you’ve outgrown the boat or you presently have interests or leisure activities you can’t seek after on your flow vessel, it may be a great opportunity to offload it and get something new. For instance, suppose your children grew up tubing and doing some essential wakeboarding, yet are presently mature enough and intrigued enough to consider further developed watersports. Contingent upon the level of their advantage and your own financial plan, you may have the capacity to redesign with a greater detachable — or go to the subsequent stage and supplant your runabout with an all out tow watercraft. On the off chance that you do choose to offer your present vessel, make certain your cost is tantamount to other comparative models available, and when you begin looking for the better and brighter one, recollect that persistence will remunerate you.
On the off chance that the vessel still does what you require it to do, however there’s abundance play in the controlling, or a fumes spill, or that the bilge dependably appears have water in it, a little torque time over the summer can regularly reestablish the pride and joy you felt when you initially got the boat. Possibly it won’t be very close to new one when you’re set, yet it will be nearer, and if the boat is paid for it will even now be paid for. There’s a great deal of significant worth in that, as well!
Source: riviera boat
Break away from the office and telecommute from your boat with these ideas to make “work from boat” easier
It’s every 9-5 boater’s dream – taking advantages of your job’s telecommuting privileges and working from the boat. In some cases you may be working from the boat for more than just Fridays – it may be several days a week or even full time.
Many companies already allow you to work from home on Fridays or telecommute, and it really doesn’t matter where you are as long as you are getting your work done. Heading down to your boat on a Friday morning or Thursday evening is usually a much better way to beat late Friday afternoon traffic in the summertime. If you can get an early start commuting to your boat then when work is done you are already there ready to enjoy the weekend.
But there are definitely productivity challenges with working from the boat – from the environment to adequate office space to reliable internet connections.
Here are some common challenges and how you might address them to make working on your boat a bit more productive.
One of the biggest problems with working from your boat is seeing your laptop screen on a sunny afternoon – the glare can be blinding. First, be sure you have a good pair of polarized sunglasses to help with the sun (a must-have for any boater really). Then, a good sun glare screen for your monitor can also help cut down on the glare.
Even if your marina offers free WiFi you may have internet connection issues at your dock because of the signal strength. Many marinas have their signal coming from the main office which is far from the docks – and even further depending on where your boat is on the dock. If your marina is not willing or able to upgrade their equipment, then you can try using an USB Wireless WiFi Network Adapter with a high-gain antenna to boost the signal.
WiFi access at marinas often has a limited number of open IP addresses… even if the wireless signal strength is good, you won’t be able to connect your smartphone or laptop. This is a common problem with busy marinas because everyone is trying to jump on the WiFi with their smartphone. It’s best to invest in your own mobile hotspot if you really need to ensure you always have a reliable internet connection. You can easily purchase a wireless mobile hotspot device online and add it to your wireless plan.
Let’s face it, unless you have a mega yacht you probably don’t have designated office space on board. Setting up your laptop at the salon table is usually the best desk you’ll have on board. Others may have to be above deck to get a good internet connectio!) Another good option may be your marina lounge or office. The internet connection and/or Wi-Fi signal is likely tn, or just choose to be out in the fresh air (that is one of the reasons you are working from the boato be stronger than at the docks and you can probably find a nice chair and table to set up your “remote office”.
Docks are usually great for socializing with your slip neighbors, but if you start chatting with everyone that passes by your boat you’ll never get anything done. If your face is buried in your laptop then people will usually get the hint that you are busy and can’t be disturbed. If not, you may want to escape to the cabin for some peace and quiet.
Hold the booze
It may be 5 o’clock somewhere (as the saying goes) but it’s probably best to not start happy hour until you log out… as tempting as it may be!
The best part about working from your boat (other than having an office with a great view) is getting an early start to your weekend as soon as you log off.
Source: riviera boat
According to change.org, “Access to clean water is not just a human rights issue. It’s an environmental issue. An animal welfare issue. A sustainability issue. Water is a global issue, and it affects all of us.”
So today, I am posting about ways boaters can help to protect water resources in support of Blog Action Day. I’ll be joining forces with over 4,000 blogs, as well as fellow boating blogs that are also supporting the cause…
Here are some Ways Boaters can Protect Water Resources…
Reduce Use of Water Bottles
Boaters tend to drink a lot of bottled water. Most boaters can go through a case of water a weekend when the weather gets hot. In fact, the U.S., Mexico and China lead the world in bottled water consumption, with people in the U.S. drinking an average of 200 bottles of water per person each year. Yes it’s important to stay hydrated, but there are more eco-friendly options for drinking cold water on a boat like insulated water bottles. Reducing the amount of bottled water we use helps cut back on petroleum, carbon emissions, and of course, waste. It also helps protect ecosystems in rural areas where spring water is mined.
Use More Eco-Friendly Cleaning Products
As boaters, we should be concerned about chemical runoff and water pollution. We need to protect the rivers, lakes, bays and oceans we love. Using non-toxic, eco-friendly cleaning products on boats will help the cause.
Just as there are ways to conserve water in your home, you can conserve water on your boat. Simple things like stopping a leaking hose on the dock, or limiting the number of times you wash your boat (an easy task for some!), can help make a difference.
Limit Use of Technology Gadgets
Your technology footprint has a impact on how much water is used. For example, an iPhone requires half a liter of water to charge. On an average day, 500 billion liters of water travel through U.S. power plants to power all the technology that we use every day. Consider tech gadgets that have multi-purpose functions – like an iPhone with GPS or a chartplotter with fish finding. It saves space on a boat and is more convenient – not to mention the energy and water savings.
Support Clean Marina Initiatives
By choosing to dock your boat at a clean marina – for your annual slip or transient stays – you are supporting green or clean marina programs. Boaters should also be respectful of clean marina programs or environmentally responsible policies at marinas – like being careful of spills at the fuel dock, using oil absorbers, proper disposal of oil and chemicals and using eco-friendly cleaners.
Source: riviera boat
Water safety tips for kids around boats, lakes, pools and at the dock to keep summer swimming fun safe for your little ones
Trips to the marina, long weekends at the lake, and pool parties galore — there is nothing quite like splashing the summer away.
As with any summer activity, swimming, boating, and playing by the water comes with a fair amount of risk for youngsters. According to Kids Health, about 1,000 kids die per year in the United States from accidental drowning, and it makes up the second leading cause of accidental death for people aged five to 24.
While experienced boaters likely know the best way to keep their kids safe around the water, families new to the boating community may be worried about water safety. There are risks, but this doesn’t mean that you need to spend your summer worrying. With the right knowledge and safety practices, you can keep your kids and their friends safe while they swim and spend time near the water.
Start by following these simple water safety tips and passing on this information to your loved ones.
This is one of the best steps you can take to keep younger children safe in and around the water. While it might be tempting to sit and chat with other adults, make sure that someone is monitoring the children at all times.
A good rule of thumb, in the open water, keep the kids in your line of sight at all times. Your attention can prevent accidents and address emergencies quickly.
Teach Water Safety
As far as accident prevention goes, it’s important to teach your kids the basics of water safety. Teach them what to do when a friend is in trouble and how to calmly react when they get tired in the water, for example.
But remember, small children should have an adult with them in the water, and kids should use a child flotation device at all times until they can swim well on their own.
Sign Them Up For Lessons
Many parents choose to sign their kids up for swim lessons when they are toddlers, and there is good reason for this. By teaching your children to swim early, they will be strong in the water by the time they can swim on their own. They can also learn water safety from a young age.
Use Lights And Barriers
If you have a pool and very young children, be sure to install a fence around the perimeter to keep your children from entering unsupervised. If you have a dock, consider installing underwater lights to illuminate the water at all hours of the day and night. Underwater LED lights can last over 10,000 hours, which adds up to 34 years when used for eight hours per day, certainly making it worth your money.
Have An Emergency Plan
Even though you are doing everything in your power to prevent an emergency, you and your family need to know what to do if one happens. Teach everyone how to call for help when something happens, and consider taking CPR classes together. The more you know, the safer your family will be.
While you shouldn’t let worry ruin your days on the water, it’s important to always be aware of the risks you face. By knowing these dangers, staying prepared, and teaching your children the right skills, your family can have many enjoyable boat days to come.
Source: riviera boat